ALAlexander Lobrano

1. Article · Sep 28, 2026 · Alexander Lobrano

   Restaurant Review: La Table de Pavie, Saint-Émilion (opens the original)

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   “The shift to eating more plants and pulses is not just a trend, it’s the major evolution in the way we’ll feed ourselves in the 21st century,” said chef Yannick Alléno sitting on the terrace of the Hôtel de Pavie in Saint-Émilion, one of the loveliest towns in France, on a sunny morning last April. “My challenge as a chef is to create the same gastronomic pleasure with vegetal menus that I’ve always done with those which include meat, fowl and seafood. What I’ve been doing is l

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2. Article · Sep 13, 2026 · Alexander Lobrano

   Restaurant Review: Louison, Le Puy-Sainte-Réparade (opens the original)

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   Chef Florent Pietravalle, a native of Montpellier, earned a big reputation for himself during the 10 years he ran the kitchens of the enchanting La Mirande hotel in Avignon. What won the 39-year-old cook a Michelin star and a following of exigent local regulars was his bold and brawny cooking style. He’s deeply in love with the vegetal world, including all herbs, vegetables and fruits, and also cooks offal and other off-cuts many chefs shy away from. He’s fascinated by fermentation as a way

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3. Article · Sep 8, 2026 · Alexander Lobrano

   French Restaurant Review: La Table de Lionel Giraud, Narbonne (opens the original)

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   Often overlooked by tourists, Narbonne, the hometown of the famous French crooner Charles Trenet, is a charming old town in the Languedoc with one of the best food markets in France and some superb Roman ruins. It’s also an avidly gastronomic place with some excellent restaurants, including the Michelin two-star La Table de Lionel Giraud. One of Chef Giraud’s dishes – squid from the Golfe du Lion in an extract of fermented carrot juice – recently appeared on a list of the 10 dishes the M

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4. Article · Aug 31, 2026 · Alexander Lobrano

   French Restaurant Review: Restaurant Le Clos de la Tour, Gilly-lès-Cîteaux (opens the original)

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   I first discovered young chef Julien Martin’s cooking when he was working as head chef in Collias in Le Gard, not far from the Pont du Gard. Here he’d won a Michelin star for his exquisitely refined but potent cooking, including two dishes I’ll always remember. First-of-season asparagus cooked in olive oil, a poached quail’s egg, crushed hazelnuts and a luscious hollandaise sauce made with hazelnut oil with a tartelette of caviar on the side was a symphony of flavours and textures, with

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5. Article · Aug 23, 2026 · Alexander Lobrano

   French Restaurant Review: Les Loges, Lyon (opens the original)

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   Chef Anthony Bonnet was hugely relieved when his restaurant in the covered courtyard of a beautiful Renaissance mansion in Vieux Lyon reopened last June. “Thirty months without a kitchen is an eternity for a chef. It was becoming really difficult for me, because my cooking is so much based on following the seasons and working with the best local produce,” said Bonnet when we chatted with him after a recent excellent dinner here. I also suggested to him that if it was difficult for him to be

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