Wine in Words
I'm a journalist and former Wall Street Journal wine columnist with an unreasonable love for Chablis, horses and Pembroke Welsh Corgis (who happen to be incredibly unreasonable dogs)
- Indexed issues, last 90 days
- 14
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- Sep 26, 2026
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- Jul 7, 2026
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E.B. White got it right (opens the original)
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This Substack column is about dogs. Actually it’s just one dog but he was a dog who contained multitudes. And for the non-dog lovers, there is a wine recommendation too – the best $20 red I’ve tasted in a while, so you (too) have a reason to read on.But first, about that dog. His name was Rollie. He was a Pembroke Welsh Corgi who passed away at the age of fifteen this past Friday. He was noisy and hairy and very much loved. And while his one great ambition - to catch the mailman - was left unrea
Spirited Away (opens the original)
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My non-alcoholic drinks of choice are seltzer and coffee. I’ve never tasted a “zero proof” spirit or a hemp and root elixir- two of the many items sold at Spirited Away, the self-proclaimed “Booze Free Bottle Shop” in mid-Manhattan.A store full of non-alcoholic facsimiles of their alcoholic counterparts seemed intriguing, although before visiting the store in person I browsed the Spirited Away website. In addition to a wide range of alcohol-free wines, teas, “alternative spirits” and “functional
The Tell of the Tool (opens the original)
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We met a couple of friends for dinner at their favorite pizzeria last week. It was a BYO joint, so I brought a couple bottles of wine. In addition to some very basic wine glasses there was a corkscrew, the worst of its kind, placed on the table by the management for our use.This type of corkscrew is commonly called a “winged” or “butterfly” on account of the two “wings” - positioned on either side of the spiral (aka “worm”) of the corkscrew - that give wine drinkers enough leverage to pull the c
Make Mine Mineral (opens the original)
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A reader inquired as to my use of the word “minerality” to describe a wine featured in my column last week. What did that word mean? He wanted to know.The words “mineral” and “minerality” are increasingly commonplace as wine descriptors. They’re bandied about by wine writers, wine merchants and sommeliers. The word appears so often that readers might be excused for believing there was some agreed-upon definition of the term – and yet there is not. In fact, there seem to be as many interpretation
Get me to the Greek (opens the original)
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When I dine at an Italian restaurant I drink Italian wine. When I eat at a French restaurant my wine of choice is Gallic in origin. But it hasn’t been easy to find a good Greek wine to bring to my local Greek taverna. I searched six wine shops in New York and New Jersey, bought eight bottles of Greek wine and found just three I actually liked - and only one that my Athens-based friend Nikos Antonakeas didn’t dismiss outright when I sent him pictures of the bottles I’d purchased.Nikos and his wif
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