HeyJaredThe View from My Table
Thoughts on food and wine trends from the former wine critic of the London Evening Standard
- Indexed issues, last 90 days
- 13
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- Sep 30, 2026
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- Jul 8, 2026
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Making wine on Crete (opens the original)
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Subscribe nowMy bare arms and legs were sticky with grape juice but still the destemmer rumbled on. At the other end of the machine, Simon and Stelios grabbed a crate of Assyrtiko grapes from a pallet and tipped the fruit into the hopper. Grapes minus stems dropped into a crusher underneath, propelled by a large screw into a thick hose and thence to a pneumatic press. And I stood behind the destemmer, moving crates as they filled with stems and carrying empty ones to Eva on
The porky treats worth protecting (opens the original)
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Subscribe nowVery few tourists come to Soria, capital of Soria province, two hours’ drive north-east of Madrid. There’s not much else here: though its lonely forests and arid plains cover more than 10,000 square kilometres, bigger than the North East of England region, this is Spain’s most sparsely populated province – 1.7 people per square kilometre, compared to three/km² in Siberia or 80/km² in North Yorkshire. Welcome to
Finding Spanish wine’s family groove (opens the original)
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Subscribe nowSitting laughing with Beatriz Callejo and friends, I lifted a glass of the wine I’d tasted earlier that day: it seemed different. It wasn’t just that I had watched the grapes for this year’s vintage of Flores being picked, then helped sort them, and watched Bea’s kid sister, Noelia, making the wine – though all that swirled in my mind. More than that: when we’d taken a break from work that morning to taste with a visiting Puer
Is the best-value fine white wine in the world? (opens the original)
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Subscribe nowEric Chevalier looks and sounds exhausted: he climbed on to his tractor to start harvest at 3am, and when I arrive in late afternoon he’s still hard at it, in overalls and wellies. It’s the first day of harvest, 14 August – the earliest ever here in the Muscadet country, just south of Nantes, at the western end of the river Loire. This year’s broiling summer – it hit 36 degrees that day – promises a small but ripe crop.
Is French food boring now? (opens the original)
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Subscribe nowI tore open the fresh baguette and tasted the Camembert’s richness; I bit into the sweetness of a tiny, yellow mirabelle plum. Lunch last month on the terrace at my mother-in-law’s Brittany beach house and the magic was still there: these very French flavours are among my earliest food memories. Despite half a century of worldwide travel and restaurant-going, a lifetime of sensory discoveries from achiote to za’atar, I realised afresh the
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