HeyJaredThe Turtle Dove
A New Approach to online fashion writing focused on criticism, thoughtful analysis, politics, and personhood. Occasional feature on taste, interiors, film, and literature. The Turtle Dove is not: a style blog, curation, or shopping newsletter.
- Indexed issues, last 90 days
- 4
- Latest publication
- Sep 12, 2026
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- Earliest in this view
- Jul 4, 2026
Latest issues
Bodiless Fecal Matter (opens the original)
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A few weeks ago, model Gabbriette got married in a custom gown by the design team Matières Fécales. Her dress was truly unique, with a hand pleated bodice, a triple bustle, the tulle déchiré underneath ivory taffeta.Matières Fécales is a Paris-based label run by Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran. Their work is hauntingly beautiful and grotesque, and their construction is impeccable. They often cast disfigured models, citing a “post-human” aesthetic, while they themselves are highly ecc
Evaluating Couture as Art (opens the original)
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This post is a return to the type of content I originally started with on Substack. In my essay “There is No Philosophy of Fashion,” I made the distinction between two different types of fashion, the first type being clothing that is presented as it is meant to be worn, clothing that is primarily practical and even commercial in its nature. The intention of that essay was to develop an ethic of discerning modesty in fashion of the first type. But there is a wide range
Blood Cloth: House of Aama (opens the original)
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Every pattern you see at House of Aama is made by hand. From the tattoo prints in their Spring 2022 collection to the native florals in Spring 2026, Akua and her mother Rebecca draw these themselves. “Almost none of the designers you can think of are actually touching the clothes themselves anymore,” says Akua in the pbs short film on their label. But Akua and Rebecca are still making everything together. In one collection, ladies dressed for Mass and afternoon tea, rosaries dangling in their fi
No Show (opens the original)
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Hello everyone, I have an essay on New York Fashion Week out in Frontier Magazine Issue 06.<img alt="" class="sizing-normal" height="2198" src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ZTu8!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2
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