HeyJaredThe Arctic File
Newsletter by Alina Bykova – Stanford history PhD, think tank editor, writing about all things Arctic, Soviet, climate and academia
- Indexed issues, last 90 days
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- Jul 23, 2026
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- Jul 23, 2026
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I can’t speak my birth language anymore (opens the original)
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Tbilisi is asleep when we land. My plane bounces onto the runway just after 4am. The world outside is still and dark.By the time I make it through customs, find a taxi driver, and check into my hotel, dawn is breaking in my hotel window.Outside, a massive golden statue of St. George stands triumphantly in Freedom Square. He reflects the first rays of pink morning light, eternally victorious as he slays an equally golden dragon.<a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" href="https://substackcd
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