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Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry

Openwork is a weekly podcast about how the watch industry actually works. An unfiltered look behind the scenes — no press releases, no hype, and no sponsored takes. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology.

Podcast · By Collective Horology · English · Official site

Indexed episodes, last 90 days
6
Latest publication
Sep 3, 2026
Audience
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Earliest in this view
Jul 6, 2026

Latest episodes

  1. Episode · Sep 3, 2026

    Geneva Watch Days 2026 – Bigger, Better, and Collector-focused – Episode 92 (opens the original)

    Episode notes · Positive tone

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    Gabe Reilly and Blake Buettner record live from Geneva Watch Days to discuss the show’s atmosphere, the growth of independent watchmaking, and what Blake’s new role at Collective means for future content. We break down major trends: independents gaining mainstream traction, the rising accessibility of creative watchmaking, and the cross-pollination of materials and techniques between affordable and high-end brands. And of course, we highlight standout releases, including Ming’s 57.05 Comet world

  2. Episode · Aug 24, 2026

    Collection Reset – Working in Watches Changed How We Buy – Episode 91 (opens the original)

    Episode notes · Neutral tone

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    Breitling relaunches Gallet on September 3rd. Openwork hosts Gabe Reilly and Asher Rapkin unpack Georges Kern's play: chronographs at 3,000–5,000 CHF, an exploration story aimed at Bremont, Longines, and Tudor, sold in Breitling boutiques. Plus Universal Genève and Breitling's return to Watches & Wonders. Then a listener question: how has working in the industry changed our collecting? It starts with selling nearly everything to help fund Collective Horology — what survived, what still stings (t

  3. Episode · Aug 10, 2026

    We Sued to Stop Tariffs – And Rolex Is Reshaping Retail – Episode 90 (opens the original)

    Episode notes

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    In Episode 90 of Openwork, Collective Horology co-founders Gabe Reilly and Asher Rapkin reveal that they've sued the U.S. federal government over the tariffs squeezing the watch industry and small businesses nationwide. They explain why they joined the suit alongside co-plaintiff Burlap Barrel, how the latest Section 301 tariffs continue to limit access to independent watches, and why it's the volatility of trade policy — not just the cost — that makes it so hard for small businesses to plan and

  4. Episode · Jul 27, 2026

    The Watch Switzerland Can't Make – Karel Bachand (Barrelhand) – Episode 89 (opens the original)

    Episode notes

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    A quick news note: On Friday, July 24, Collective, along with New York spice importer Burlap & Barrel, filed a lawsuit in the U.S. Court of International Trade challenging the federal government's latest Section 301 tariffs. We'll dig into the details on our next episode. In the meantime, you can read more here. On this episode of Openwork, Gabe Reilly and Asher Rapkin talk with Karel Bachand, founder and chief engineer of Barrelhand, the San Francisco brand rethinking American watchmaking. Kare

  5. Episode · Jul 13, 2026

    The Rise of Tudor – How Rolex Wins by Letting Tudor Dare – Episode 88 (opens the original)

    Episode notes

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    How did Tudor go from a brand you couldn't even buy in the United States to a half-billion-dollar powerhouse selling 300,000 watches a year? In this episode of Openwork, Gabe Reilly and Asher Rapkin trace the rise of Tudor — from its wilderness years in the shadow of Rolex to the 2009 reinvention that produced the Heritage Chrono, the Black Bay, the Pelagos, and an in-house movement. Along the way they unpack the ETA supply crisis, the 2008 financial crash, and Rolex's move upmarket that opened

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