HeyJaredNotes from the Road
Notes from the Road is the substack for travel writer, photographer and sketcher Erik Gauger. Handcrafted travel blog featuring vivid photography, illustrations and long-form travel notes. Follow Erik Gauger's award-winning and critically acclaimed journe
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- Aug 23, 2026
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Taormina and the Volcano Oranges (opens the original)
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This is Part IV of The Citrus Kingdom. The final two chapters arrive in late September. If you’d rather read this story on the web with the full-resolution photography, you can find it on Notes from the Road.Sometime in the 1990s, while I was still living in Los Angeles, a man from San Pedro came to Taormina on vacation and went home with a handful of lizards.He released them in his backyard. They stayed. And they began to spread.I am at the ancient Greek theatr
Lipari and the Colonel’s Lemon (opens the original)
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This is Part III of The Citrus Kingdom.This chapter can also be read on Notes from the Road, where it appears with high-resolution photographs, sketches, and illustrations from the journey.Boarding a ferry is always a heart-pounding moment for me, as it is now in Milazzo, where we are boarding for the crossing to Lipari, the most populous of the Aeolian Islands. Above the port, a Bourbon castle sits on its headland, pale against the dry hills, watching t
Cefalù and the Sour Orange (opens the original)
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This is part II of The Citrus Kingdom, and can be read with large format images on Notes from the Road.There is a point on the drive east from Palermo where Cefalù appears from around a bend. Suddenly, you see this gigantic promontory with vertical walls. Cefalù sits below, ancient walls in Sicilian pastels, creeping up onto the promontory’s cliff sides.I had walked these streets once before, and outside the busy season, when it felt like I had the whole v
Palermo and the Citrus Kingdom (opens the original)
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This article lives on Notes from the Road.When I last visited Sicily, I noticed the citrus the way you notice weather: everywhere, but not yet meaningful. Returning now with Jane and our friends, and with plans to drive east from Palermo, I realize that there is more to Sicily’s love affair with citrus. Perhaps Sicily itself can be best understood by the citrus fruits it cultivated, transformed, and ultimately helped give to the world.<a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" href="https:
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