Milk Trekker
Dispatches from global explorations of cheese, dairying, and pastoral traditions, every Friday.
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- Sep 25, 2026
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Video Report: the Rennet/Culture of Beaufort (opens the original)
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This video shows parts of the process for making the whey based rennet/culture I described in a previous post. In the voice over I explain how abomasa are sourced, and the enzymes extracted. This is the final report about Beaufort, and I’ll move onto other things in the coming weeks. I’ve left France and am in Italy for Terra Madre before heading over to Bosnia-Herzegovina to search for Kaymak aged in animal hides. Then I’ll fly to the UK for something new, something non-cheese related, somethin
Marmot logic: contrived tasting notes from mountains of deliciousness. (opens the original)
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This post is the final episode of trilogy about Beaufort. Its stands alone, but reading part one, and part two will round out the picture. I’ll follow this with a couple of video deep dives into the cheese coming next week.<a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!SOA2!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.
Rennet soup: how cheesemakers cultivate microbes indigenous to milk and calf abomasa. (opens the original)
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<img alt="" class="sizing-normal" height="2184" src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!-L4V!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fdbbf7f5e-8c4d-47ac-a7d2-19c0b895c140_6000x4000.
Video report: the Beaufort milking machine. (opens the original)
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The milking machine is impressive, and all most of the makers seem to be using the same model. It allows the cheesemaker to collect milk from a wide range of mountain pastures, leaving the herd away from the chalet where cheese is made during the summer. Even more impressive is how it is cleaned. How the cleaning regime has been shifted to affect fermentation. I hope you enjoy, feel free to ask questions, and prepare for Friday’s release of Beaufort part two about the rennet/culture. <spa
Beautiful and strong: Beaufort, the highest expressions of what cheese can be. (opens the original)
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The aesthetically-pleasing concave edge of the wide wheel overhangs like a cornice about to calve off a glacier. A faint ribbing is visible along this signature curve, the imprint of the beechwood ring used to form the cheese inside linen cloths during pressing. The brown-orange rind, flaking off or displaying war wounds obtained during aging, bumps and bruises difficult to avoid while flipping a 40 kilo milk mammoth. Some cheeses can be immediately identified at a quick glance. Beaufort is one
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