Investigations of Irish food
Substack on Irish food culture, its history and our investigations of contemporary Irish food at Aniar restaurant in Galway, Ireland.
- Indexed issues, last 90 days
- 9
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- Sep 26, 2026
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- Jul 4, 2026
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Food as Culture (cont’d) (opens the original)
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The Dublin Theatre Festival opened during the week to much fanfare and made the one o’clock news on RTÉ Radio 1. This seemed entirely normal, though I was surprised. It’s not often culture makes the news. Though, the festival has a long history and brings international work to Dublin, so it does deserve it. It gives Irish theatre-makers an important public platform on a national stage and beyond. Its opening belongs on the national news, if only on the radio. We are a nation of theatre lovers af
10 Reasons Why Food Isn’t Culture in Ireland (opens the original)
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Culture Night has returned to our bookshops, galleries and libraries. It’s all a go. There are readings, recitations and installations everywhere—in theatres, courtyards and any disused or vacant building that can be impregnated with art. There will be poems and projections, presentations and parties. And somewhere, inevitably, there will also be food.The food will be called catering, not culture. It will most likely be provided in the form of sponsorship, because that is the role we have given
Setting the Irish Table (opens the original)
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“Cultures that care deeply about food often care about life, history and tradition” (Danny Meyer). In Setting the Table (2006) the American restaurateur Danny Meyer makes a useful distinction between service and hospitality. Service is the technical delivery of a meal. It is taking an order, opening a bottle of wine, clearing the table at the right moment, etc. Hospitality is how the guest feels when these things happen. It is the emotional aspect of the action. Meyer calls this the “Hospitality
Gastrophysics in the West of Ireland (opens the original)
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1. Taste Is Never Just TasteI grew up around physics. My father was a physics lecturer at the university in Maynooth, and though I took a different path, the language of forces, energy, matter and transformation were always present, floating about my discombobulated life.Physics attempts to explain the invisible structures governing the visible world. Cooking, in its own way, does something similar. Heat changes protein. Salt draws out moisture and amplifies taste. In lactic fermentation, bacter
On Rowanberries (opens the original)
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The rowanberries are beginning to ripen. They appear like small fires in the mid day sun, in hedgerows and on the tree lined walks of housing estates: orange and scarlet. They stand out against the leaves that had not yet begun to think about turning brown. <so
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