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beyond beurre blanc.

the home for gutsy, independent restaurant criticism in Minnesota & Madison, Wisconsin.

Newsletter · By Kirstie Kimball · English · Paid tier available · Official site

Indexed issues, last 90 days
15
Latest publication
Sep 28, 2026
Audience
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Earliest in this view
Sep 2, 2026

Latest issues

  1. Issue · Sep 28, 2026

    Every Girl Needs a First Date Playlist. Here’s Mine. (opens the original)

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    When there’s a group of single people talking about how much they hate dating, you can often hear me in the chorus, with my own horror stories (a man who went 11 drinks deep on a first date at a tasting menu and then told me he left his wallet at home) and battle scars (accidentally dating someone with a cancer fetish) and yearning (for someone who brings their wallet on a date and doesn’t have a cancer fetish). But when it comes down to it, I don’t actually hate dating. I kind of… like it. Most

  2. Issue · Sep 26, 2026

    My Go-To Order at Al’s Breakfast (opens the original)

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    Al’s Breakfast is an important restaurant to many Minnesotans, and I’m no exception. I go to Al’s on weekday mornings, including every almost single morning before I left for Rochester for my chemotherapy appointments earlier this year. It’s a landmark for me that marks my treatment, but it’s also an institution that shows that sometimes restaurants really can stand the test of time.<a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!6y2_!,f_auto,q_auto:goo

  3. Issue · Sep 24, 2026

    At Restaurant Aubergine, Pastry is the Point (opens the original)

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    I can almost always tell when a restaurant doesn’t have a pastry chef. The “tell” is in the dessert menu’s construction. It’s full of things that I call “chef desserts,” often easily executable without much vision or inspiration. Take, for example, the rise in panna cotta. It feels directly correlated to the decline in restaurants hiring pastry chefs as margins grow thinner and thinner every year. Panna cotta, and its cousins, are not too hard to execute. It requires very little skill.Or, there’

  4. Issue · Sep 19, 2026

    On Kissing Men in the Death Knells of Their Marriages (opens the original)

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    The thing about kissing men in the death knells of their marriages is they kiss like they want to swallow you whole. They touch you like they never wanna let you go, even when you’re a stranger. They know the trappings of marriage, like muscle memory. If you cook them dinner, they do the dishes. If you’re sick, they bring you pho and kiss your forehead. They wrap their arms around you the way that you would wrap your arms around someone you have known for a decade when you have known them for 10

  5. Issue · Sep 18, 2026

    What’s your favorite burger? (opens the original)

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    Last year, I gave my paid subscribers a Christmas gift: I named my favorite burger in Minnesota. Just one, singular burger. I did this because I feel like almost every burger sits on a “best burger” menu in the Twin Cities. It drives me bananas and it means that you actually don’t ever hear from writers about what their actual, legitimate favorite burger is. I get why outlets do this. It makes money. If my singular burger piece was one of my highest grossing of the year, I’m sure that those mult

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